Birding in Kyoto: Imperial Park & Kamogawa

Another weekend, another day I force myself outside because I could use the fresh air and exercise. This time, in Kyoto. Normally, I go to Kyoto for the temples and shrines, the markets, or the scenery. This time I would be trying to look for birds.

First stop: Kyoto Imperial Park

This is the location of the Imperial Palace (closed except for scheduled tours you must reserve) as well as a few other imperial buildings and other attractions. The park is fairly large, with some trees and green areas around the perimeter but also large gravel pathways surrounding the palace. At first, I didn’t see much because the birds were higher up in the trees and moving a little too fast for me to catch. Sparrows and pigeons of course were easy to see. Eventually, though, I found a small shrine where quite a few different birds were hanging out.

Shrines and temples in Japan can often be quiet havens of nature. They may have large mature trees protected as part of the shrine, inner gardens, and are almost always a lot quieter. This one had some shrubs and shorter trees where there were quite a lot of birds foraging among the leaf litter. Distracted by a crow gathering nest materials at first, I hung out here for a little while as I spotted more birds up in the branches and down in the leaves.

Large-billed Crow

This bird hopping across the entrance to the shrine is what first drew me in. It was collecting pine needles for nesting material and at one point, turning its head, reminded me of Nigel Thornberry with the way the needles stuck out on either side of its bill like a large mustache. After pulling at some paper litter, it eventually flew off to deliver its load to the nest.

Oriental Turtle Dove

I’m not sure I’ve ever noticed these doves before, maybe mistaking them for pigeons because of their size, or just not seeing them as often. The mourning doves we have back home are smaller and more vocal, but the turtle doves were quietly rustling around in the leaves. Flicking them out of the way looking for food, keeping one eye on the people walking past, but otherwise unconcerned.

Pale thrush

I have an image of thrushes being very spotty birds, so this one confused me at first. But I suppose its name fits because it had a pale unspotted belly and pretty solid coloring. It blended in well to the shadowy brown leaf litter. As it hopped around it kept stopping to look at me, warier of my presence than the dove.

Varied Tit

I believe this may have been a recently fledged young bird and its parents. It was easy to locate as it screeched for food, mouth open and wings fluttering in a familiar begging pose I had seen when caring for orphaned birds. After another bird deposited a sizable grub in its mouth, it quieted down and started hopping around in the branches, exploring on its own.

Japanese Tit

Quick as ever, this little bird wouldn’t sit still and quickly moved on, but I finally managed to get a full side view of it.

Brown-eared Bulbul

Briefly spotted this bird peeking out from the leaves of the camellia tree.

Dusky thrush

Got a better view of the dusky thrush away from the shrine in a more open grassy area beneath some taller pine trees. These thrushes had the more familiar speckled belly and were foraging in the grass.

Next stop: Kamogawa (Kamo River)

Not going to lie, I mainly just wanted to enjoy hanging out on the riverbank. Japan has a lot of rivers and they are often set up with walking paths and benches, so many people enjoy hanging out by the riverside. But water means wildlife, and there was no shortage of birds even at this popular river walkway.

Black kite

One of the first birds to catch my attention was the black kite. These raptors are incredibly common and are easy to spot circling above the rivers. They also call frequently and, to me, make up one of the distinct natural sounds of Japan. There was a pair hanging out in the top of a cherry blossoms tree, making for another great spring photo.

White-cheeked Starling

These birds might seem familiar to Pokemon fans because they resemble the pokemon Starly, with their brown bodies and white cheeks. These are also pretty common to see around local parks and were making their way along the bank in a little group.

Grey Heron

Another common sight near water, there were a couple of these wading around the bridge area and near the rocks.

Little Egret

On the other side of the river, this little egret was admiring its reflection in the water. Or maybe looking for food. One of those.
The big giveaway for this species is the black beak, most of the other egrets have a yellow beak.

Japanese Wagtail

This one was perched on some rocks in the middle of the river. This was another bird new to me, I didn’t know that white wagtails and Japanese wagtails were 2 different birds because they always move so fast! The Japanese wagtail has a smaller white mask above its eyes, while the white wagtail has a broader white mask across its face.

And now for some ducks.

Mallard

This male was hanging out in the shade of the bridge so he didn’t have the strong green sheen to his head and it was more of a dark blue, with a bit of green showing on the cheek. The female was not far behind, dipping below the water to dabble for food.

Green-winged teal

A pair hanging out in the middle of the river, enjoying the sun.

Eurasian Wigeon

This male was cruising with his girl around the bridge, enjoying the fine weather.

Baer’s Pochard

A pair of dark diving ducks, these two would quickly disappear under the water leaving only ripples. They were in the middle of the river where the water was deeper, going after aquatic insects maybe.

At first glance, the imperial park and the riverside didn’t seem to have that many birds (other than the usual pigeons, sparrows, and ducks), but once I slowed down and looked a little closer I began to notice more. Even in a city as large as Kyoto, there is plenty of nature and wildlife to be found.

Until next time. . .

Enjoy this pigeon photobomb!

Birding at Osaka Castle Park

Spring is around the corner and after weeks hiding from the cold in my apartment, I finally dragged myself outside for some fresh air and a bit of birding.

Around the end of February in Japan, it’s plum blossom season. It’s one of the first big blossom events after the winter but often overshadowed by cherry blossom season which comes in March-April. That being said, the fragrant plum blossoms still attract plenty of people to the groves planted around castles and temples.

Plum grove at Osaka Castle

In addition to people, the groves also attract many birds with the sweet nectar of their blooms and insect life waking from winter. And when it comes to plum trees, there is one bird, in particular, you can expect to see and which everyone wants a picture of. The Warbling or Japanese White-eye. An olive bird with white spectacles around its eyes, these little birds flit from tree to tree drinking the nectar from the plum blossoms. Sitting atop the blossoms, they make for beautiful spring photos which is why you’ll often see a group of photographers with big telephoto lenses all pointed at the same tree.

To get this same picture, and hoping to find some more birds, I went to Osaka castle park for a late morning of relaxed birding.

Stepping through the castle gate, I entered the grove on the left and began to wander through, keeping an eye out for the birds while basking in the pink clouds of blossoms.

To get the most out of the view, groves of flowering trees are carefully tended and arranged with meandering paths around roped-off patches of trees. This lets people get close enough to the trees for pictures but maintains large patches where birds can land and forage out of reach.

After wandering around, taking some pictures of the castle and the blooming trees, I made my way toward the back of the grove. This area is a little quieter and in the shade of some bigger pine trees and a castle wall. I find it tends to have a little more bird diversity than the more open and active area near the gate.

True to expectations, this is where I found and photographed most of the birds on my outing.

Warbling white-eye / Japanese white-eye

These little birds seemed to usually be in pairs or small groups, hopping among the branches drinking the nectar. They’re fun to watch and hold still long enough to take your pictures before they move on to another branch or tree. They’re also popular as a symbol of spring in Japan, hence why everyone wants to get that perfect flower framed pic of them!

Brown-eared bulbul

I was surprised to see that this bird, larger than the white-eye, was also feeding on the nectar from the blossoms. Although, because of its big size, when it landed on the smaller branches it tended to knock some of the petals loose and scare off the smaller birds.

Daurian redstart

I only saw one of these birds, hanging out at the very back of the grove. Rather than feed on the nectar, this one was foraging on grubs and insects from the ground.

Japanese Tit

I was trying for a picture of this little bird since its black and white head reminded me of the cute chickadees back home. Unfortunately, after getting a picture from behind, it was scared off by someone talking to me and never came back down from the castle walls.

Eurasian sparrow

These birds are common everywhere but still cute to see and easy to snap a picture of.

White wagtail

A speedy little bird that doesn’t sit still for long, running along the ground before flying off.

Dusky thrush

It blends in perfectly with the brown brush behind it.

Not 100% sure of this I.D., but seems like this brown bird may be the dusky thrush. It blended in pretty well with the brown leaves and branches, so I only noticed when it moved!

After getting my fill of blossoms and birds at the castle, I headed down to the moat to check out what waterfowl were hanging around. Unfortunately, most of them took off to the far side of the moat, but I managed to get a few pictures of the ones closer to the rail before they swam off.

Eurasian coot

These birds seemed less bothered by people approaching the rail and continued to paddle around, fairly close, just doing their own thing.

Tufted duck

You can see from the tuft of feathers on the back of its head where it gets its name from

There were quite a lot of these guys swimming around.

Eastern spot-billed duck

I think these are pretty common to see around, the average duck if you will.

Green-winged teal

It was difficult to see the color on these due to the cloudy weather, but after some photo editing, I’m pretty confident I got the ID right.

Redhead duck

This was one of the ducks that was too far away for a good picture, but it stood out for its color. I’ll try for a better picture next time.

All in all, not a bad day. I haven’t tried bird watching in a while, but it was a nice change of pace. I also had a new camera lens to work with which made it fun to try and get pictures of all the birds I was seeing. Now that the weather is warming up, I’m going to try and get out more often and see what else I can find in the parks and gardens around here.

Until next time . . .

Enjoy this fine pigeon!

Japanese Birds of Spring

There’s still a bit of winter chill hanging around but spring is just around the corner. Here in Japan, we are in the midst of plum blossom season, oft-forgotten in the shadow of sakura season. With the days growing longer and the weather (ever so gradually) warming, the birds and beasts are coming out. If you ever happen to visit Japan during this time, here are a few Japanese birds of spring to keep an eye out for and where you may spot them.

1. Japanese White-eye/ メジロ (me-ji-ro)

Japanese white-eye perched on some plum blossoms at the plum grove in Osaka Castle Park

If you visit some of the plum blossom groves in February or March, there is a good chance you will see this bird perched among the blossoms. The Japanese white-eye, also known as the warbling white-eye, is easy to spot among the pink with an olive green head and back and the white circle around its eye from which it gets its name. These agile birds flit from branch to branch drinking the nectar of the plum and cherry blossoms and eating small insects. If you’re looking to spot some, look towards the tops of the trees where they like to hang out. Otherwise, keep an eye out for where groups of people are pointing their cameras!

Where to see it:

My go-to spots are Osaka Castle Park’s plum grove as well as Jonangu shrine in Kyoto, where you can enjoy the weeping plum blossoms and camellia. Since the trees are a little shorter than the cherry blossom trees, but just as packed with blossoms, there’s a solid chance you can get a good look at the white-eyes. For cherry blossom season, you can go to just about any park. Japan’s love for sakura means they have them planted everywhere, so it only takes a quick google to find a park or cherry blossom spot nearby.

2. Japanese Bush Warbler/ ウグイス (u-gui-su)

By Alpsdake – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=31779418 

The Japanese Bush Warbler is a nondescript bird you are more likely to hear than see. Many in Japan mistake the white-eye above for this bird, because they can often hear it but only see the olive white-eyes flying around in the trees. The bush warblers are brownish in color with a lighter gray-brown belly and a bit of a darker stripe along their eye with light “eyebrows”. Despite this lackluster appearance and their tendency to stay hidden in the brush, they are considered the true harbingers of spring in Japan. In fact, another name for them in Japanese is “harutsugedori” or the “bird that announces spring”. This is because their iconic breeding calls can be heard in spring, and some consider this to signal spring’s true start. The breeding call sounds like a low whistle ending in a warbling trill.

Cultural symbolism: Spring & Sutras

This bird has great symbolic meaning in Japan. They believe its call sounds like “Ho-hoke’kyo”, one of the other names for the Buddhist Lotus Sutra. Additionally, the bush warbler’s name in Japanese, “uguisu”, is one of the kigo words used in traditional poetry to symbolize spring, and is featured in poetry anthologies from the Nara and Heian periods. It has such a strong association with spring, they even have a traditional sweet named after it: uguisu mochi. If you are visiting Japan in spring, see if you can hear this call when you go out, and don’t forget to stop by a Japanese sweets shop to pick up some uguisu mochi along the way!

3. Barn Swallow/ ツバメ (tsu-ba-meh)

Barn swallows are migratory birds that return to Japan in the spring in preparation for their summer breeding season. They are small-bodied birds with pointed wings and a long, deeply forked tail. Dark, metallic blue feathers on their head, back, and tail make a bold contrast to their rusty throats and white or cream bellies. These acrobatic birds swoop through the air eating flying insects such as flies and moths (and come summer, hopefully, mosquitos!).

Symbols of Spring: Traditional Poetry

Barn swallows also have a place in Japanese traditional poetry as kigo, words or phrases that represent the seasons, representing spring and summer. In spring kigo, swallows appear as swallows in flight: hi en 飛燕 and first swallow of the season: hatsu tsubame 初燕. Next time you head outside, look to the skies and see if you can spot your hatsu tsubame!

Photo from https://www.miyanomayu.com/archives/8939297.html

Where to see it:

Another great place to see this bird is, surprisingly, local train stations or shop buildings. Swallows build their mud nests against the wall of a building, usually under an overhang. Because of their special significance in Japan, rather than try and remove these nests to prevent bird droppings from disturbing customers, businesses will often simply put up an umbrella under the nest to catch the droppings and put up signs to alert customers. I see this often at my local supermarket where they will put out a little sign on a cone to get people’s attention and an umbrella to keep things clean.

mejiro tag on Instagram

These 3 birds are symbolic of springtime in Japan and have been memorialized in traditional poetry, sweets, and of course on Instagram. They can be found throughout most of Japan so odds are high you’ll be able to see them (or in the case of the bush warbler hear them) during a spring visit.

Are there any birds symbolic of spring where you are from? Or any you look forward to seeing once winter ends? Comment below and let me know!

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